The Wild Wing was named after the hit song, you know the words: Wild Wing, I think I love you, but I gotta know for sure.

The Wild Wing is very stable due to the deep sweep and the airfoil. It slope soars well even with the motor off. It is capable of huge loops, rolls too fast to count and snap rolls for the advanced flyer with increased elevon throws and a brushless motor.

The Wild Wing was designed to fly well with a $1.00 J250 motor and a E-tec 1200 HP (or comparable) high output lipo battery with which it has been clocked at 62 MPH. We have clocked the plane at 93 MPH with a brushless motor.

I have listed 5 different sites at the end of this building guide giving links to other instruction manuals for other flying wings. They make good reading and each has something to add to the hobby. I recommend that before you jump in and start to build your wing you spend a little time getting to know the the way some other designers have engineered their wings. These Wild Wing instructions are fairly complete but there is usually more than one right way to do things in this hobby. For your information there are usually several wrong ways too. Your task is to get enough knowledge to know the difference.

You want your construction to be simple, light, strong, dependable and modular for quick field repairs and part replacement.

For your information the airfoil is a crossbreed of the top of a SD-7032 airfoil and the bottom of a SD-6060 airfoil. It has a 37 degree sweep and tapers from 9 inches to 3 inches without the elevons. I have used this airfoil for years in power applications with amazing results. Enjoy !!!!

1. As you build think of ways to cut weight but maintain strength. Reducing the plane weight has the same effect as having a bigger motor. Do not use too much glue. Use lightweight radio and batteries. Finished building weight can be as low as 9-10 oz on a 35 inch wing with a J250 motor and a Etec 1200 HP lipo battery.

2. Take the cores out of their beds. Break a piece of EPP foam off of the bed and use it as a piece of sandpaper to sand the wing. This will remove the angle hair and much of the cutting residue.

3. Cut the wingspan to length. These wings have flown well from 23 inch to 35 inch wingspans. We recommend that beginners keep the wing full length. It is easy to cut the wing off as your skills improve.

4. Using a low temperature glue gun, glue the two wing core halves together. A high temperature glue gun will ruin the cores.

5. Cut your elevons. Use 3/16 inch balsa. Leave space for a 5 inch prop and cut the elevons at least 1.25 inches deep at the root and 2.25 inches deep at the tip. They will each be about 16 inches long. Sand the trailing edge of the elevon to an airfoil. If elevons are cut too small they will cause drag that will slow the plane down every time you turn or loop.

6. The center of gravity (CG) is going to be close to 7 inches back from the nose of the plane. If you cut the wing down put the CG at 25% of the wing area.

7. Use a 14 inch length .157 carbon tube across the center of the bottom of the wing at center of gravity (CG) for strength and to reduce high speed flutter.

8. You can use a soldering iron or an exacto knife and a straight edge to cut the slot for the rod. I have an old soldering iron that I ground the tip off of and slid a wheel collar up to the depth that I want the slot to be cut. I can trace a metal straight edge in a few seconds and have a perfect fit for the .157 tube.

9. Sand the carbon rod then glue it in with the hot glue. The entire slot does not have to be filled. Reinforce the ends of the slot with hot glue after the tube is in.

INSTALLING THE MOTOR AND RADIO

10. This method uses two pieces of Formica to make the motor mount and to reinforce the root of the wing. This method installs the radio from the top of the wing. Simple engineering can modify this for bottom installation to improve the looks of the finished plane. This method is so simple it greatly reduces building time and adds enough strength that the radio compartment cutouts do not significantly weaken the plane.

11. A 2.5 inch x 2.5 inch piece of Formica will be on the top, center, trailing edge (TE) of the wing and a 2.5 inch x 8.5 inch piece on the bottom. The bottom piece will need to have the front edge cut to match the shape of the nose of the plane but it will sit slightly back from the nose of the plane due to the rounded leading edge of the plane. This simple method gives more radio room because you can cut clear through the wing to install battery and radio.

12. The Formica will extend behind the core trailing edge (TE) by about one half inch to fill the sharp angle of the trailing edge of the wing. This will improve airflow, decrease prop noise and give the prop a little more area to turn.

13. Cut a motor slot into the 2.5 inch x 2.5 inch top Formica that is snug to the motor you have chosen. The cut will leave an inverted U shaped piece that will be glued on the top, center trailing edge so the prop will poke out the back of the plane.

14. Center and trace the U shaped piece of Formica on the top trailing edge of the wing core. The back edge of the Formica should be scooted back to where the back corners touch the trailing edge of the wing.

15. Center and trace the bottom Formica matching the trailing edge up with the top Formica motor mount. Do not cut a slot in this piece for the motor.

16. Decide how to best mount your motor, battery, ESC, receivers and servos to balance at the CG. You can cut clear through the core as long as the battery, the receiver and the speed control are over the bottom Formica. A tape or Formica hatch will cover the top radio access cut outs.

17. You can lay the battery flat and put it under a piece of Formica on the top of the wing or I stand the battery on its side in a tight cut out in the front center of the wing. This leaves the battery exposed but lets it cool better and is easy to trade batteries. I cut out a single square box clear through the wing just ahead of the top motor mount for the receiver and the ESC. Laying the battery flat with a hatch cover is better for combat but lets the battery get hot so make air vents in your hatch if you use this method.

18. Design your installation so you can remove all of your radio without having to cut into you plane other than covering. This makes repairs something that can be done in minutes at the flying field and will give you more flying time.

19. Your antenna needs to be installed away from the motor or you will have radio glitching problems. It cuts the radio range if you coil or double the antenna back over itself. It might be best to get a micro antenna and tape it to the outside of the wing after the plane is covered. Here is a link to a micro antenna that I have used with good success.

http://www.allerc.com/product_info.php?cPath=39&products_id=1162

20. Lay your servos on their side as far forward as you need to for CG. Your servos will need to have their control arms at least 3.5-4.5 inches from the center line of the plane so they will align with the elevons. I like external control rods due to simplicity, lack of flutter and leverage. It also makes changing servos easier if you break gears in combat.

21. Using a pencil draw the parts on the core where you plan on installing them. Remember that elevons, winglets and covering will tend to shift the weight to the back as you finish the plane.

22. When everything fits and all of your radio compartments are aligned, use and exacto knife to cut out all radio and battery mounting slots. Cut the EPP foam slightly smaller than the radio part to be installed. The EPP foam will grip and help secure the servos and battery if you do not over cut. Except for the tape over the top of the servos this cutting method is the only way I secure my servos. If you are laying the battery and servos flat, cut only to the depth needed.

23. Glue the top motor mount Formica piece in first. Hold it carefully in place until it cools. There will be a slight flex in the Formica that you will need to maintain until the glue is set.

24. Cut the foam out of the motor area before gluing the bottom Formica.

25. Glue the bottom Formica in place. Apply the hot glue to the bottom of the wing so it does not fill in your radio and battery slots and using your pencil line as a guide. Make sure to align it with the trailing edge of the motor mount.

26. Slide you motor into place. Cut a small piece of balsa or spruce and glue it in place on the bottom Formica at the front of the motor to keep the motor in line with the center line of the wing at 0 degrees thrust.

27. Drill a 3/16 inch hole 3/4 inch from the trailing edge on each side of the motor through both the top and bottom Formica for a wire tie that will hold the motor in place.

28. Aligning winglets is done by taping the elevons in place and placing the trailing edge of the elevons against a straight edge or wall. Using a 90 degree square draw a line at each wing tip of the EPP foam making sure both wings are the same length. The winglets should be mounted with the front of each winglet toed in towards the center 1/4 inch. This stabilizes the yaw of the plane. Use an exacto knife to carefully cut the foam.

COVERING THE WILD WING

29. Prior to taping or covering you will need to spray the wing with 3M77 spray adhesive. The entire surface needs to have a moderate coat and let it dry.

30. Put an additional very light coat of 3M77 just before applying the reinforced tape and covering. EPP foam has a rubbery texture that coverings do not like to stick to. We discourage the use of colored packing tape and encourage quality low temperature iron on coverings to strengthen the wing. We do use colored packing tape for simple repairs however.

31. Experience has taught us that the wing tends to tear on the trailing edge about where the tips of the prop are in combat and hard crashes. The carbon rod helps to prevent this but reinforced fiber tape is needed across the middle on the top and bottom of the trailing edge. Cut the tape out of the motor area as needed for motor installation. This tape will go off the leading edge of the wing before it reaches the wing tips.

32. Wrap a 2 inch strip of reinforced fiber tape around the entire leading edge of the wing clear to the wing tips before covering.

33. Insert your servos prior to covering for best appearance. The 3M77 will help hold them in place. I often leave mine out and then cut the covering and tape them in place, with colored packing tape after the wing is covered due to my belief in quick field repairs.

34. Choose a color pattern that is highly visible and will not confuse you. Flying wings can be disorienting at first. Make the top and bottom different colors. Use bold light and dark patterns that will help identify your plane in combat.

35. If you very lightly spray the wing prior to applying the Ultracoat or other covering, the tackiness of the 3M77 will let you stick the covering on with no initial ironing. This trick can save a lot of time and give a better final appearance. Heat shrink afterwards making sure you seal the edges well.

FINAL SET-UP

36. Mount your battery, servos, receiver, ESC, and motor. Break in the brushed motors before installation if it has not been done.

37. Make hatch covers as needed depending on your design.

38. Mount your elevons. It is recommended that the elevons are taped their entire length both top and bottom to reduce drag and flutter and to strengthen the wing tip. Make sure you leave a small gap at the end so they will not rub on the fins when they move.

39. Tape the top of the elevons first then fold them all the way back over the wing and tape the bottom. Iron the tape with a low temperature iron for maximum adhesion.

40. Install the control horns on the elevons.

41. Install the control rods from the servos to the elevon horns.

42. In order to get axel rolls, put the control rod through the servo arm at the 45 degree position towards the front of the plane rather than the normal 90 degree position. This will give you twice as much down as up in elevon throws.

43. Cut your fins and tape them in place. The fins can be made from coroplast, the plastic brightly colored covers that you get on the cheap 3 ring binders, balsa or whatever you can find that is light and strong. The fins seem to work well even if they are somewhat flexible. Tape the leading edge and cut a slot or two to run a small piece of tape through the fin to the top and bottom of the wing. Carry a spare fin or two with you for those quick field repairs.

44. Route your antenna and tape it in place with scotch tape on the bottom of the wing. Keep the antenna away form the motor and do not cross it over itself. Make sure that any loose end can not reach the prop. This is where a micro antenna comes in handy.

45. Check the center of gravity (CG). Add weight or move radio as needed to balance the plane.

46. Make sure your radio is set for elevon control or sometimes called V tail control. Check your elevon throws and make sure that when your standing behind the plane and the control stick is pushed to the right the right elevon rises and the left drops, and when the control stick is pulled back both elevons rise. If they do not you will need to trade places with the plugs in your receiver or flip reversing switches on the transmitter or both.

47. Do a range check on the radio with the motor both on and off. If you are having problems with the motor on reroute your antenna and move your ESC and receiveraway from the motor and try again. The design of flying wings leaves your antenna close to the motor. When a motor is running it is like a small lightning storm and can cause interference that goes away when the motor is off. Check the radio with other people flying with your plane on the other side of the other flyers when their radios are on. Watch for jitters or lock up in the elevons or the motor cutting in and out. We have had several wrecks lately that seem to be caused by interference to single conversion receivers not coping well with multiple frequencies on at once. Just be carefull. Do not fly if the radio is having trouble.

48. Set the trim up 1/8 inch on both elevons.

49. Set you maximum throw for 3/8 inch up and 3/8 inch down for first flights. Increase your throws as your skills improve.

50. Test glide. You should be able to pull the nose of the plane up for landing or not have tip stalls which would happen with nose heavy or tail heavy planes.

51. First Flight should be done by launching the plane with motor off then hitting full throttle as soon as it is out of the hand. Trim and add weight as needed by the way it flys.

Here are five examples of other similar planes construction articles. All of them are good EPP flying wings and the designers have worked out technical problems in different ways. They vary from the ultra simple Pocket Combat wing to the complex Unicorn and all have great engineering.

Notice the way they install their carbon fiber rods, batteries and install their motors. Look at their covering techniques. They have a lot of good ideas. There isn't one right way to build a plane.

You will find the links to their construction manuals if you look around their pages.

http://www.aceshighrc.com/instructions_j250.htm

http://www.speedwing.net/

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=236426

http://unicornwings.site.yahoo.net/downloadmanual.html

http://www.combatwings.com/catalog/instructions.php

I hope you have fun with the Wild Wing. Please post a picture of each one you build on our U.F.O. Thread on rcgroups.com. If you have comments or questions please also go to the rcgroups.com U.F.O. link below because it is monitored closer than this site and I am reserving this site to answer frequently asked questions before they are asked.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2949296#post2949296.

Enjoy!!!!!!
Lee Aston